|
Jon Turk
|
|
Detention
- Older in Altai Bike Expedition, 2006: Zyryanovsk - Newer in Altai Bike Expedition, 2006: Strangers
The time for Jon's call comes and goes. Then finally: they had three days of riding decent roads through villages and farm land, getting invitations to share meals with a beekeeper and farmers living in yurts surrounded by a chorus of goats and horses. On the third night they camped near a village, had their bikes tied to their tent(as must be the custom there to tether your ride when in camp!) when in the middle of the night a rope was cut and someone made off with Noey's bike. In the small village of Katon Karquay, they filled out the police forms and set about to buy a bike. They found a small shop with three new bikes. It took all day, but they were able to make one bike that would work from this inventory. With miles to go, the bottom bracket fell apart not far down the road. Some horsemen came by and rebuilt the bearings with a screwdriver, pocket knife and hydraulic hose. Noey, Jon, and their 14 year old guide Stas spend the night with their saviors and set off the next AM. Whereupon the crank falls off. So they walked, rolled, pushed and pulled into Uryl. Some new friends stop by and know of a farmer-mechanic. At the farm, they try bearings from a sewing machine-too small; then bearings from a starter motor of a military vehicle- too big. Five hours later they find 2 low end bearings at 30 cents apiece. They repack the bearings, load them with grease and weld(!) the crank on. There, it won't come off again. For 60 cents and half as many hours they are off again.
The police find Noey's bike and take Jon, Noey and Stas to prison to meet the thief, Marat of 21 years. The court needs the three travelers to accuse this thief, but the court won't be held for 2 months, in which case it is necessary for the police to detain them. While in detention, Jon thought it wise not to pull out the satellite phone for the scheduled update, not wanting to complicate this delicate situation. All the relatives and the vllage elders begin to arrive and negotiations are started lasting a full day and night. Finallly an agreement is reached: the thief's uncle would pay Jon $150 for all the trouble caused and Jon would drop charges against Marat. Then they all go off to the relative's house for a feast that lasts till 11PM.
Today they have a 4,000 foot climb and Noey is fixing the spoke on her retrieved bike. On a previous trip, Jon had said to his wife Chris, "When all these hassles are over we can begin the trip." She gave him a hard look and said, "Jon, this is the trip." This thievery brought them into the culture and exposed them to much more than an infallible, impeccably equipped excursion would have. All Jon's journeys leave him exposed; this is Jon's invitation to us to let down the walls, air conditioning, sound proofing and insulation, and open the door. It is a rich experience out there, come on out!
Dated: 07/20/2006
|
|